Singapore: Grilled fish on a generous bed of numbing chillis and peppercorns from China’s southwestern metropolis, Chongqing; cumin-laced lamb skewers from Xinjiang in the far north; and fiery rice noodles flavored with snails from the famed rivers of Guangxi in the south. All of this can be found on a walk down Liang Seah Street in Singapore, showcasing the current wave of Chinese culinary influence.
According to BBC, Chinese food is experiencing a significant moment outside China, driven by huge success and intense competition back home. In Singapore, where ethnically Chinese people make up more than three-quarters of the multicultural population, this trend is particularly evident. Chinese brands are expanding rapidly, with Luckin, China’s answer to Starbucks, opening its first overseas store in Singapore in March 2023 and now boasting over 60 locations, with a recent debut in the US market.
The culinary scene in Singapore serves as a proof of concept for Chinese brands looking to expand globally, says Thomas DuBois, a historian of modern China. Singapore’s diverse population and status as a travel hub make it an ideal test kitchen for various palates, from South Asian to European. As visitors, many of whom are ethnic Chinese, explore the new offerings, they encounter menus that extend beyond the usual dumplings and hot pot, providing a genuine taste of China’s vast and diverse culinary heritage.
The growth of Chinese restaurants in Singapore is not just about food but also the cultural experience. Chains like Nong Geng Ji and Green Tea Restaurant are introducing diners to authentic flavors and immersive dining experiences. These ventures aim to change perceptions and showcase the diversity and sophistication of Chinese cuisine, moving away from the simplified “Chinese food” that has dominated Western markets for decades.
The expansion of Chinese culinary brands is part of a broader strategy to project soft power through cultural diplomacy. As these restaurants gain popularity, they bring with them reliable supply chains, marketing expertise, and the ability to offer competitive prices. This rapid expansion raises concerns among local businesses about keeping up but also highlights the potential for food to serve as a bridge in international relations.
Felix Ren, director of Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia, suggests that Chinese cuisine may become the new form of cultural diplomacy, akin to the ping-pong diplomacy of the past. As the world grapples with China’s growing influence, the spread of its culinary culture offers a more palatable form of engagement, showcasing the country’s rich traditions and helping to soften its image on the global stage.